Started my third day in Laos exploring Vientiane, but first the free hotel breakfast. It was good. Nothing fancy but got me started. Not fond of the coffee, but there are plenty of good cafes around.
Today’s trek began with a walk to Bang Long Vietnamese Temple (Chùa Bàng Long). It was an interesting temple, but it’s needing some TLC to whip the pagoda into shape again.
While wandering the grounds I was waved down by an Indian man who is, apparently, a fortune teller. I think his side gig is also hustler, as he had his banter down pat.
After sharing pleasantries about where we’re from, he proceeded to tell my fortune. I suspected this might cost me, but I decided to roll with it.
He claimed to have made a prediction of the first two letters of my favourite flower, that I had 2 kids (a boy and girl), my favourite colour, and whether I valued love, money or business more. Oh, and my lucky number. Miraculously, he had! /s
The upshot of all that? On Sept. 10 this year, God will apparently bring me good luck. His advice to me was to wear purple on Saturday, and don’t cut my hair or nails on Thursdays. My lucky number 9. He added that there are two women always thinking about me, but I am not thinking about them, and there’s only one woman I am thinking of.
He said for me money is in one hand, and out the other, but I am lucky in love. I guess he was able to read my forehead (he asked me to remove my hat). He was slick with the banter, I will give to him that!
He opened his book and I placed the crumpled piece of paper upon which he’d made his prediction, and suggested I add money to the book. I knew that part was coming! How much do I give for a spontaneous fortune telling? I discovered 5,000 LAK wasn’t enough, and he commented on it. That was only about 8 Baht, or $0.30 Cdn. I was trying to do the math and I suppose I could have added more! But, as you’ll recall, money is in one hand and out the other with me, so I have to work on that! No better time than the present!
After that interesting diversion, I continued on to the main temple, still chuckling at the whole situation. The Buddhas in this temple were quite different than I am used to, so that was interesting.
It was time for more coffee and, as I wandered back towards the area my hotel was in, I discovered one Vientiane Cafe, a quiet, rather fancy coffee shop with excellent coffee! I didn’t even have to add any sugar to this coffee, and that is always a good sign.
After a nice relaxing time sipping coffee in the air conditioned cafe, I ventured in to another temple a short distance away. Seems like you’re never very far from a temple here! The main temple was closed, but some of the surrounding buildings were open.
By this time I was getting hungry again, and stopped at Kataenoy Restaurant, where they serve Thai and Laos food. I had the tofu salad, Lao sausage, and deep fried spring rolls. It was all good, and I was particularly impressed with the tofu salad. It had tofu, various herbs, onion, and possibly garlic mixed with fish sauce, I think. Unusual (for me), but delicious! The Lao sausage was similar to northern Thai sausage.
MAG UXO Centre
The highlight of the day was the visit to the Mines Advisory Group (MAG) UXO Visitor Information Centre. UXO is the acronym for unexploded ordinance, which refers to various unexploded military ammunition, bombs, mines, etc.
It’s an odd thing to be a highlight, but I had no idea that UXO was as big of a problem as it is here in Laos. It’s a remnant of the savage bombing campaign against Vietnam and Laos during the shameful American invasion.
Later research I did shows that the U.S. has funded some mine clearing efforts, but groups responsible for it are chronically underfunded, and frequently run out of money. As someone wrote on a note on a public message board there: “U.S.A. Clean up your mess!” I certainly agree with that sentiment.
UXO has caused a lot of death, destruction, and suffering here, with children being frequent victims. Not only do people suffered physically, but the country is also much poorer as a result. A lot of land here is rendered unusable due to the ever present threat of this deadly unexploded ordinance in Laos.
I would say it’s a must see in Vientiane, for two reasons. First, the MAG UXO centre gives you a good picture of something that is still a huge issue in Laos 50 years later, limiting its growth, still causing chaos and death. Second, it is important to be aware of this issue in Laos, for your safety as you travel. There are many dangerous areas in Laos because of UXO.
After more wandering, a shortcut through another temple, I ended up at La Terrasse Bakery – Cafe. I enjoyed some tonic water and a slice of custard tart (I can’t quite remember what it’s called). Then it was back to the room to relax for a while but, wouldn’t you know it, there was another temple to stop at. I got lots of steps in on this day, and wasn’t done yet!
After resting I headed off for supper at Nuan, which is billed as an Asian fusion restaurant. On the way I stopped for the colourful light show at Nam Phou Fountain. It was nice.
I had the Mixed Pork Rice Bowl (Chinese BBQ, Crispy Pork, Braised Pork, Baby Bok Choy, Garlic, Rice). It was amazing! Wow! I have had some good food but that has probably been the best. I was surprised, because normally I don’t like too much rice. This was balanced well with the pork and the not-too-spicy sauce that accompanied it. I am contemplating going back again before I leave, just for that!
While I was there, I asked another patron of the restaurant to take a couple of photos of me. I was blown away by one of them. I think it’s probably the best photo of me I have had anyone take! The lighting in the upper section of the restaurant is really nice!
After supper I wandered a bit more and headed back to my room. It was raining by this point, but it was nice. The weather hasn’t been excessively hot, but a bit humid.
Overall I’ve been pretty impressed with the capital of Laos. I think that exploring Vientiane is definitely worthwhile. It’s a bit of a quiet city, compared to other Asian capitals, but you can uncover many hidden gems if you’re patient and willing to spend some extra time here.
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